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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/21/14 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The Tastic RFID Thief has been around since late 2013, and since I've had a tremendous amount of requests asking how to build it, I thought that this blog post would be of justice to the tastic. About the Tastic RFID Thief The Tastic RFID Thief was introduced by the company Bishop Fox through a series of and videos across mid-late 2013. Bishop Fox describe the Tastic silent, long-range RFID reader that can steal the proximity badge information from an unsuspecting employee as they physically walk near this concealed device.I built my first Tastic RFID Thief in February 2014, with no experience in electronics, and as a total challenge given to me by my boss at the time. It was an overall fun experience however, and I'm grateful that I was able to push myself. So, to all those who want to build one, but don't quite have the experience to do so, my advice is just go for it. The Tastic RFID you see in this post, is the second that I have built for a security consultancy company in Sydney. This guide assumes that you are doing constant testing of the circuit along the way. Whilst this guide itself isn't so detailed and bullet proof, it definitely will act as a great reference and tutorial towards building the Tastic. Getting Started 1. Getting your parts in order Bishop Fox conveniently provide a downloadable list of parts, which you can find here. Most parts are necessary for the production of the tastic, however the following three parts are not really needed: You can mount the board yourself with some tape/hackiness: Adafruit - Board Edge Mounting Kit - Pack of 4 ID 1116 (~$3)Board Edge Mounting Kit - Pack of 4 ID: 1116 - $2.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits This is for showing off/aesthetic purposes only: Two Wire Display Stand; Set of 2 6A - Black (~$9)Amazon.com: Gibson Holders Two Wire Display Stand; Set of 2, Black (6A-: Office Products Official HID MaxiProx 5375AGN00's come with a screw to tighten the lid by default: Single thumbscrew in front to hold cover onNylon 6/6 Thumb Screw, Knurled Head, #6-32, 3/4" Length (ASIN: B000FN2ADW) Nylon 6/6 Thumb Screw, Plain Finish, White, Knurled Head, Flat Point, Meets ASTM D4066/ASTM D6779, 3/4" Length, Fully Threaded, #6-32 Threads (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Since the above isn't stated in the parts list, I thought I would just make it clear to new comers that those parts are not essential. Additionally, the project will require having access to the following equipment: Soldering Iron w/ solderSome sort of clamp to hold anything which needs to be solderedHeader pins, rainbow cable Last, but not least, Bishop Foxhave kindly provided the PCB design/schematics needed for this project. They are freely available and can be found here. You can get such a Fritzing PCB printed out via: Fab — Fritzing Fab or Printed Circuit Board Prototype - PCB Fabrication - Assembly | Advanced Circuits 2.Connecting up the PCB In order to connect up the PCB, you'll need to fire up your soldering iron to around 400°C and wait some time to ensure that it is hot, and ready to go. While the solder is warming up, simply place the Ardiuno Nano onto the PCB, fitting it in where outlined: When in place, it should look something like this: By either using a clamp, or something which can hold the arduino, as well as PCB in place upside down, solder the arduino on: The end result should look like this: Since the general gist of soldering things onto the PCB has been established, just continue adding all the other parts via soldering onto the PCB where indicated on the PCB. Here's how my PCB turned out, which should be good guidance of how to set everything up. Clip anything from the bottom of the PCB if it is too long, e.g. pins from the arduino and the legs of the resistors, capacitors and voltage regulators. Note: For the Maxiprox connection pins for the PCB, you can see how my PCB contains header pins instead of a direct connection. This allows for the PCB to be moved freely, right until we make the final connection. Congratulations, your PCB now has all the parts needed, attached. We can now continue with the assembly of the LCD screen. Here is how the PCB should look from the bottom (sorry for the blurriness!): 3. Assembling the LCD Screen The LCD screen, in my opinion is largely not required. Perhaps for demonstration and debugging purposes it can be quite useful, however in a real life penetration test, it's unlikely that once you steal a persons RFID information, you'll quickly check your Tastic RFID Thief to see the number pop up on the LCD screen momentarily. However, I did document it for everyone. Since header pins are all round useful, add some header pins to the RX, GND and VDD spots on the LCD board. Solder these header pins on, like seen in the image below: These three pins will join accordingly to the 3 pin terminal block on the PCB. Keep track of the colours I used for the connection (green = VDD, yellow = GND, orange = RX). 4. Preparing the Batteries In this build of the Tastic RFID Thief, instead of the suggested 2 x 6 battery case solution, I was forced to instead use 3 x 4 battery case solution. Basically, connect the battery packs up like the image below (Note: Don't solder all the connections until you're happy with the arrangement and the switch has been added): In the image above, you may notice the lack of a switch in between the last battery back and the terminal block on the PCB. When building the RFID tastic, my friend andI added the switch later, after confirming that the battery circuit was working fine. The entire circuit is below (without the RFID reader connected): 5. Connect the PCB to the HID Maxiprox By using the header pins we put into the PCB earlier, we can easily make a connection from the PCB to the reader. The photo below, shows how it could be done (colour coding to help you out): You may notice that I have not connected the wires for the LCD, this was because for some reason it was somehow shorting the entire circuit. I concluded that it was either faulty, or that I had messed up something with the power distribution, however as soon as it was removed, everything was working fine, consistently. 6. Finishing Up With Hardware To finish up the project, simply hold everything down with electrical tape. To make sure that the PCB does not move around when the Tastic is closed, you can use double sided tape or something similar. One of the biggest issues included making sure that the height of everything placed inside of the maxiprox was less than the actual height of the maxiprox. If anything were higher, then the casing would not close without extra pressure (which is seriously not recommended). Additionally, you may need to set your Maxiprox to the following settings in the image below: and the voltage level to the following setting: Even though I don't have any photos of setting it up, in the finalisation stages, it's also recommended to fix the missle switch/regular switch into the hole provided in the Maxiprox. The final version of the Tastic RFID Theif looked something like this: Notice the missile switch to the right of the PCB. 7. Uploading Code to the Arduino This part is quite simple.Download the Ardunio software here: Arduino - SoftwareDownload the Tastic RFID source code here: http://www.bishopfox.com/download/814/Download the SDFat Library for Arduino here: http://sdfatlib.googlecode.com/files/sdfatlib20111205.zipRead the following guide to help install the SDFat Library: Arduino - LibrariesCompile the project to ensure no errors arise, and then simply connect the arduino on the PCB to your computer via a mini USB cableSelect your respective device and COM port from the options of the Arduino IDE and click the upload button Completion! Once the code is uploaded, put in the microSD card into the microSD card reader on the PCB, ensure that no connections are damaged or missing and keep an eye out on the LCD screen (if one is attached). The building process is now complete. Feel free to flick the switch on and make sure that your RFID cards are being read and written to the microSD card. I really do recommend reading Bishop Fox's page on the tastic, and watching their video demonstrations to give you even more of an understanding of how the tastic works and how to build it. Good luck and feel free to contact me along the way! Sursa: Guide to building the Tastic RFID Thief
  2. 1 point
    Sper sa ajute cuiva, e direct de la cisco: Internetworking Technology Handbook - DocWiki
  3. 1 point
    Salutare, zilele trecute am primit acest cod si cum eu nu am ce sa fac cu el, m-am gandit donez aici pe forum. Cine il vrea sa posteze aici, primul venit primul servit. Cerinte. Userul trebuie sa aibe peste 500 de postari aici pe forum. O zi buna.
  4. -1 points
    "De ce sa merg la vot?" "Cu cine sa votez?" "De ce sa ma implic eu in politica?" Acestea sunt intrebarile ce mi le puneam si eu, pana de curand cu situatia din Ucraina, amenintarile la Republica Moldova si implicit lucrurile ce se intampla in Romania cu Ponta, urmatorul video ar trebui sa va faca pe toti sa mergeti la vot: fiindca acestia ne dicteaza viitorul. Mai jos gasiti o dezbatere mai lunga din punctele mele de vedere.Dragilor, sa reiteram un pic istoria ca sa invatam de greselile celor din inainte, asa ca o sa vorbesc in mare parte despre Ponta si PSD (Iliescu) prin video-uri ce va rog sa le urmariti daca aveti de gand sa votati (sigur, este alegerea voastra): 1990: 1. -- 2. [ in special: si ]si nu in ultimul rand: De ce sunt importante? Iliescu sta in spatele PSD-ului, iar socialismul din punctul meu de vedere, in situatia in care este Romania, situatie ce necesita o piata deschisa pentru investitori, taxe cat mai mici (pentru a ii favoriza) si altele, nu au cum sa sustina socialismul, fiindca in socialism statul este cel ce creeaza locuri de munca, ori acest lucru este imposibil din punctul meu de vedere atat timp cat Romania este in Uniunea Europeana, asa ca nu au ce cauta comunistii la conducere (Ponta), plus cateva statistici pe 1989-1990: (sursa: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanian_Revolution)Acum la curent avem urmatorii candidati din cate se aude: Ponta din PSD, Klaus Iohannis din ACL (fuziunea PDL si PNL), ca independent o avem pe Monica Macovei din PDL si nu in ultimul rand Cristian Diaconescu din PMP. As dori sa dau cateva referinte pe Monica Macovei: 1. Ea a ajutat sa ajunga DNA cum este in ziua de azi 2. Activa in politica interna cat si externa, europarlamentar cu 40 de legi adoptate in UE printre care si o lege in care se confisca bunurile celor gasiti corupti 3. Nu are nimeni parghii catre ea si banuiesc ca la toti le e frica daca ajunge ea la putere (nu se mai pot imparti dosarele dupa influenta fiecaruia) Acestea ar fi punctele mele pentru care ma duc spre ea, un minus ar fi trecutul ei: (https://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monica_Macovei#Carier.C4.83_profesional.C4.83)De ce nu Iohannis? De-aia: Site oficial: www.macoveipresedinte.ro Gasiti si pe YouTube inregistrari cu ea la fel si fel de conferinte, la fel si in legatura cu ceilalti. Spor la vot. E timpul ca tinerii sa inceapa sa-si aleaga drumul. Fara justitie nu putem face nimic, este prea raspandita coruptia, in opinia mea trebuie intai sa facem curatenie aici, iar apoi sa avem invatamantul pe roate ca sa scoatem ce anume cere piata, atragand investitori si totodata avand locuri de munca; asta pe langa nevoia de sanatate si siguranta (daca ar incepe politia sa-si faca treaba si sa nu se lase la influenta 'smecherilor'). Ah era sa uit, si de la romanii din Moldova: Aici puteti vedea bine cum actioneaza rusii prin propaganda, intimidare si violenta + evenimentele de la ei (recent au inceput colaborarea cu UE si au inceput si amenintarile la adresa lor din partea rusilor).
  5. -1 points
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